December
Amsterdam
Amsterdam has an atmosphere all its own, an amalgam of concentric canals, vintage bicycles, idyllic parks and scintillating galleries. Few experiences can compare with cycling the Grachtengordel, the girdle of canals that radiate south from Centraal Station lined with a crazy quilt of narrow residences dating from the city's Golden Age.
Another ideal way to spend time is hopping on a (free) ferry across the River IJ to north Amsterdam amidst barges, cruise ships and pleasure craft. Stop into a 'brown café' of a chilly evening and experience that unique blend of conviviality and cosiness the Dutch call 'gezelligheid'. As much a legacy of the city's illustrious past as its canals is its legendary cosmopolitanism. With a population comprised of 175 nationalities, Amsterdam is a global crossroads and an ever-vibrant centre of art, music and culture. The illicit thrills are there too for those who demand them, though the Amsterdammers themselves take it all in stride.
Amsterdam Historical Museum
Housed in a former orphanage that dates from 1524, the museum is filled with paintings, prints and archaeological finds that illustrate how Amsterdam grew from a small medieval town into a modern city. The entrance fee to the museum includes access to a glass-roofed ‘street' lined with 15 massive group portraits of the Amsterdam Civic Guards. Just below the museum is the Begijnhof, a peaceful enclosed square ringed by brick houses dating from as early as the 14th century. It traditionally housed the Beguines, unmarried Catholic women who wanted to serve God but chose not to become nuns.
Anne Frank Huis (Anne Frank House)
The small, but highly, popular Anne Frank House annually attracts up to 1 million visitors per year; expect lengthy queues. It is the historic home where Anne Frank, her family and four other Jewish people hid from the occupying Germans during WWII, after fleeing their native Germany. Finally caught by the Nazis after two years in hiding, they were taken off to concentration camps, where Anne eventually died. However, her father survived and published her diary, which takes pride of place here.
Hermitage Amsterdam
Housed in the historic Amstelhof, this recently opened museum is a sibling of its namesake in St Petersburg. The main permanent collection focuses on artistic and cultural links between Russia and the Netherlands, with exhibits brought in from St Petersburg. There are also a wide range of temporary exhibitions, as well as a section on the heritage of the historic home of the museum itself.
Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace)
Designed by Jacob van Campen, this formidable structure on the Dam Square was built in 1648 as Amsterdam's city hall. When King Louis Napoleon arrived in in 1808, he had it turned into a palace. The large collection of Empire-style furniture, chandeliers and clocks all date from this period. Although the palace is still the official royal residence, the royal family lives in The Hague. However, Queen Beatrix does host official functions here and the interior has recently been brought back to its best. The admission price includes an audio tour.
Museum Het Rembrandt Huis
This museum, a charming three-storey house built in the early 17th century, is where Rembrandt lived for nearly 20 years. It is home to a comprehensive collection of 250 of the artist's etchings and self-portraits. Many visitors find the odds and ends that he accumulated during his lifetime, such as Roman busts and turtle shells, every bit as colourful and illuminating as his paintings. The work of Rembrandt's teachers and students is also on display, which adds depth and dialogue to the master’s own work.
NEMO Museum
Bringing to mind a massive seagoing vessel, the cutting-edge NEMO Museum is an unmistakable sight on the banks of the IJ, a short stroll from Centraal Station. It offers plenty of hands-on exhibits to stimulate young minds and keep them occupied, blowing giant bubbles, looking at cosmic rays and maybe even creating life. Older visitors, too, may be intrigued by the exhibits on science and technology. The rooftop has a beach area, a surreal place to take in the rays on a sunny day.
Nieuwe Kerk (New Church)
Despite its name, the original church that stood on this site was started in 1408, as the congregation had outgrown the Oude Kerk (Old Church). Of special interest is the 10m (32ft)-high pulpit, which took sculptor Albert Jansz Vinckenbrinck almost 20 years to create. Located next door to the Royal Palace, the Nieuwe Kerk has been used for the inauguration of Dutch monarchs since 1815 (Queen Beatrix was crowned here in 1980). The church is also renowned for excellent exhibitions. Organ concerts are performed Sunday evenings from May to August.
Rijksmuseum
The largest and most popular museum in the Netherlands was opened in 1885 and has grown steadily ever since. The highlight is the masterpieces collection with the seminal works of Dutch giants Rembrandt (The Night Watch) and Johannes Vermeer (The Milk Maid). Note that during the ongoing renovation of the main building, scheduled for completion in 2013, the masterpieces are being displayed in the Philips Wing.
Van Gogh Museum
This spacious museum houses 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 750 letters by the Dutch master Vincent Van Gogh, making it easily the world’s largest collection by the artist. The ground floor has an overview of Van Gogh’s career, while the upper three floors are devoted to the different periods of the artist’s work, liberally interspersed with paintings by his influences and contemporaries, such as Toulouse-Lautrec and Gauguin. Temporary exhibitions, such as the recent Picasso in Paris, are equally compelling.
Vondelpark
Just a short walk from the Leidseplein, the Vondelpark is an ideal place for visitors to get away from it all. Named after a famous Dutch poet, the 49-hectare (120 acre) park is the ‘green lung' of Amsterdam. With upwards of 10 million visitors annually, it contains ponds, gardens, lakes, playgrounds, a skating rink, cafés and a bandstand. During summer, there are regular free concerts, and at times, palm readers and buskers (African drummers, classical quartets and jazz singers) provide entertainment.
WHAT TO SEE
Canal Tours – Enjoy beautiful views of Amsterdam’s famous canals by taking a canal tour with one of the shipping companies on the Damrak or Rokin.
Bridge of 15 Bridges – In the canal belt of the city there is one bridge that gives a view of no less than 15 bridges at the crossing of the Reguliersgracht with the Herengracht.
The Narrowest House in the World – This tiny house, complete with a typical Amsterdam bell-gable, is just two metres wide and six metres deep.
Zaanse Schans – For total immersion into historic Dutch culture, a visit to the village of Zaanse Schans is a must.
Cinema – For modern films played in a historic site, visit the famous Tuschinski Theatre.
The Red Light District – It’s hard to go to Amsterdam without coming across the Red Light District, which occupies most of Amsterdam’s oldest areas in the centre of the city.
WHERE TO STAY
The Dylan,Keizersgracht 384InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam,Prof. Tulpplein 1
Hotel Seven Bridges, Reguliersgracht 31
The Grand Sofitel Demeure Hotels, 0udezijds Voorburgwal 197
Hotel de l’Europe, Nieuwe, Doelenstraat, 2-8
WHERE TO EAT
Utrechtsedwarstafel,107-109 UtrechtsedwarsstraatAltmann,Amsteldijk 25
Suite,Sint Nicolaasstraat 43
Tujuh Maret,Utrechtsestraat 73
Restaurant As,Prinses Irenestraat 19
La Rive, Prof. Tulpplein 1
Excelsior,Nieuwe, Doelenstraat, 2-8
In De Waag,Nieuwmarkt 4
Panama,4 Oostelijke Handelskade
NIGHT LIFE
Bar Bep,Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 260NOA,Leidsegracht 84
Jimmy Woo’s,Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18
Freddy’s Bar,Hotel de l’Europe, Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8
Mansion,Hobbemastraat 2
NL,Nieuwezijdse Voorburgwal Centre
Sinners,Wagenstraat 3-7, Grachtengordel East
More,Rozengracht 133
Moko,Amstelveld 12
Escape,Rembrandtplein 11
WHERE TO SHOP
Coster Diamonds ,Paulus Potterstraat 2-4Stoeltie Diamonds,Wagenstraat 13-17
Van Moppes Diamonds,Albert Cuypstraat 2-6
Gassan Diamonds,Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175
Kalverstraat
The Nine Streets
Braez Boutique,P.C. Hooftstraat 106, 1071 CC
Firma P.G.C. Hajenius,Rokin 92-96, 1012 KZ
Spiegelkwartier